We are quite pleased to have chosen Bequia (Bek-way), the largest of the Grenadine islands, as our first landfall following our Atlantic crossing. Lonely Planet describes this 7-square mile jewel as “the most perfect island in the whole Grenadines”, and its charm and appeal are immediately apparent. There is plenty of room in big, well-protected Admiralty Bay, where several dozen boats bob on moorings or at anchor. The water, in colors ranging from palest blue to turquoise, azure, and cobalt, is clear, clean, and warm for swimming. Low hills full of greenery provide a scenic backdrop. Ferries, yachts, water taxis, and the service boats that deliver water, fuel, and laundry criss-cross the bay and provide entertainment as we enjoy our morning coffee or evening sundowners in the cockpit. Additional evening entertainment occasionally reaches our ears as we hear the sounds of steel-pan music from shore.
Admiralty Bay
Once we’d picked up our mooring and negotiated a long term deal, we made coffee, off-loaded our grubby passage laundry to the service boat, rowed to the closest little dingy dock, about 100 yards away, and walked into town. Charming little Port Elizabeth, Bequia’s only town, is not much more than a series of shops, markets, and cafes rimming the beach around the bay. After stopping at an ATM for some local currency, we checked in with the friendly Customs and Immigration officials, then wasted no time in sampling some island cuisine. Before lunch we took a table at the Gingerbread Café for a couple of cold bottles of the local beer, Hairoun, which the locals call “Hold Your Own”. While we “held our own” first cold beers in over a month, we took advantage of the WiFi to catch up on our backlog of e-mails. Then we were off to the Porthole café for some serious food. The conch roti, the burger, and the rum punch were a huge treat after 30 days of “boat food”.
Port Elizabeth
Roti are a Caribbean specialty, generous bundles of meat or fish in a spicy curry sauce with cubes of potato, all wrapped in a paper-thin wheat-flour tortilla. During our stay in Bequia we also tried some local “jerk chicken”, which, while not as juicy as our American birds, was deliciously seasoned and grilled. From a Trinidadian sidewalk vendor we bought “doubles”, a Trini specialty of excellent curried chickpeas sandwiched between thin fried pancakes. Messy and tasty, and a bargain at $4 EC each (about $1.50 US). And even though they are not yet in season, the mangoes we bought were sweet and juicy.
“Hot, tasty doubles”, says the sign. And they are!
We divided our time between tending to SD’s post-passage needs and exploring our new digs. Ken scraped a big crop of goose-neck barnacles off SD’s bottom, and spruced up her stainless hardware, while Katie scrubbed the cabin sole and did a major wipe-down in the cabin. Despite having been on the open ocean, the wind had managed to deliver dust and super-fine sand to our interior all the way from the Sahara.
For such a small island, Bequia boasts a significant number of skilled craftsmen and chandleries. We found a replacement for our boat hook at one of the chandleries, got some stainless steel welding done on our windvane, bought a new solar panel regulator and got our headsail re-stitched. We’ve also managed to significantly reduce the island’s rum inventory. We are certainly helping out Bequia’s economy!
We made frequent forays into town, where colorful local fishing boats are pulled up onto the beach in front of the bars and cafes. Fruit stands, open-air markets, cafes, and craft shops line the waterfront walkway, and beside the beach, local artisans tend a little row of tables, hawking their their wares under shady trees. From the island’s earliest days, boat-building has been at the heart of the island’s economy, and beautifully hand-crafted model boats are for sale, along with beaded island jewelry, imaginative coconut carvings, and colorful hand-painted bowls made from calabash (a type of gourd).
The people are unfailingly smiling, friendly, outgoing, and eager to help. The Rasta guys at the fruit market wave and call out greetings when we pass, even if we’re not buying that day, and the staff at several cafes greet us like old friends. Bequians descend from North American whalers, Scottish farmers, French freebooters, and African slaves, and English is the main language, spoken with a musical island lilt.
Whaling was once a major occupation here, and some of the island’s residents are descendants of New Bedford (USA) whalers who arrived in the 19th century and taught the skill to locals. Under stringent International Whaling Commission restrictions, whaling is still permitted here, when the humpbacks arrive from the north around February to breed. But there are very few whalers left with the skills to hunt them – a daunting and dangerous feat in an open sailing boat, with hand-thrown harpoons.
Fresh baguettes (from French Martinique) delivered right to your yacht!
During calm conditions on our Atlantic crossing, our light weight spinnaker made the difference between the boat’s moving or not moving.
One of the calm, squally days we encountered during our crossing of “the pond”.
Pre-passage in Puerto Calero, Lanzarote – ready to go and looking forward to warmer temps.!
From here we’ll head south towards our ultimate destination, Grenada. We are looking forward to the trip, because there are many islands, all within reach of day sails, to explore along the way. Before we depart Bequia, we plan a day trip to nearby St. Vincent on the ferry. But that will be another story!
Cheers and beers! K and K
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