On the west coast of mainland Greece, less than 100 miles south of the Albanian border, lies the Gulf of Amvrakia. Entered via a two-mile long channel from the Ionian Sea, its waters extend east for almost 20 miles, and its coastline is dotted with multiple anchorages.
The Gulf of Amvrakia as seen from the space shuttle. Levkas in foreground.
This part of Greece contrasts sharply with the dazzling white-washed houses and craggy islands of the Aegean. Here, the distant high eroded mountains of the mainland provide a dramatic backdrop to the coastal greenery. On the islands and along the coast are gentler pine-covered slopes, their lower reaches green with fields and farmlands or meadows filled with wildflowers. Olive trees are everywhere, and some of the oldest gnarled specimens date back to the Venetian occupation in the 14th century.
We entered the Gulf at Preveza, a busy harbor with multiple marinas and boatyards, a pleasant pedestrian walkway along the waterfront, and some tiny charming backstreets and old churches. We dropped the hook for a few days in a quiet cove near the north end of town, then weighed anchor and sailed off to explore the Gulf. We spent two days anchored off a nearly empty beach in the northeast, and took a long walk ashore, where the rolling hills were covered with farmlands and groves of olive and lemon trees.
We had this little anchorage in Salaora Bay all to ourselves!
We followed that with a sail to tiny Vouvalos Island, where we spent one night, all alone except for several dozen seagulls, who complained loudly at the intrusion. A handful of little nearby islands were all steep-to, and their sheer mud-red sides were topped with thick green foliage, giving them all the appearance of chia pets.
A smart sailor is conscientious about sun protection!
Before returning to Preveza to prepare for our departure from the Gulf, we anchored for two nights in the lee of little Koukouvitsa Island, near the town of Vonitsa. The pretty islet is connected to the mainland by a little causeway, and boasts a lovely wooded park with a small beach and a freshwater outdoor shower affixed to a tree. For the first time since we left Missalonghi five and a half weeks ago, SD’s crew luxuriated in our first “full-on, stand-up, all-the-water-you-want” shower!
We had a kick-ass sail back to Preveza, close-hauled in force four conditions under “jib and jigger” (headsail and mizzen). With the wind on our nose, we tacked our way back across the bay, averaging four knots, and sailing 18 miles to make good eight miles. Conditions were glorious, so the extra miles were actually a pleasure.
We have found Preveza’s people to be typical of Greeks in general: smiling and friendly, never in a hurry, always happy to strike up a conversation, and interested to know where we are from. A tiny local fish market caught our eye, and when we stopped to take a photo, the fishmonger eagerly lifted a fish to pose for us, while his assistant chatted with us and told us how anxious she is to see America someday.
Happy fishmonger, lovely fresh catch of the day!
As happy as we are to visit Greece, she’s anxious to make a trip to America!
Typical produce market with fresh, colorful, delicious seasonal fruits and veggies!
A delightful observation on the Greece that we have visited: No one texts! For that matter, it’s only occasionally that we see people talking on cell phones. Instead, taverna tables are occupied by people young and old, teens and seniors, leisurely chatting over minuscule cups of strong Greek coffee, or perhaps an ouzo and a small plate with a few olives. Folks look at each other instead of down at their cell phones. Very refreshing!
Hangin’ at the taverna, where conversation trumps texting!
Our final days in Preveza were occupied with laundry and a bit of provisioning, staging for our departure to our next planned anchorage in Fanari Bay, about 20 miles north along the coast. From there we will bid adios to the mainland and sail west to Paxoi island, our “jumping off” place for Italy.
Cheers! K&K
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