Leaving Levkas

 

Prior to our departure from Nidri, we opted for one more road trip. Having previously motor-biked the perimeter of Levkas, we headed into the mountains to see some of the interior. We were treated to jaw-dropping views as Ken navigated dozens of dizzying switchbacks on the steep mountain roads, our ears popping as we climbed higher and higher. The air was clear and fresh, sweet with the mingled scents of pine, wildflowers, and herbs.

Levkas Town in background

We took a break in the mountain village of Karia, known for traditional weaving and embroidery, before descending into busy Levkas town, as our empty mountain road merged into a deluge of traffic, where one-way-street postings and stop signs seem to be merely suggestions.  We stopped in town for a fantastic lunch of souvlaki, skewered cubes of grilled pork, juicy and delicious.

Summer is upon us now, with bright hot days and water temps perfect for swimming. The sun rises by 0600, and doesn’t set until around 2130 at night. We rigged up our big awning for shade, and we sleep with our hatches open to catch the night breezes. Life is good!

At mid-day on Friday the 13th, we suddenly felt a tremor shake the boat, accompanied by a low rumble.  Earthquake!  Immediately afterward, some chatter over the VHF radio confirmed that others had felt it, too.  But it was just a baby quake, and the only “tsunami” it generated was a series of small swells rolling across the bay.

We’d gone ashore a few evenings for a walk-about or a meal or a cold ouzo, but usually our happy hours were spent relaxing on the bow.  We’re dedicated people-watchers, and our anchorage neighbors provided us with free entertainment, much of it “R”-rated. European cruisers are not shy about swimming or parading on deck “au naturel”, so lily-white butt- cheeks and assorted dangly bits were frequently on display.  Most of this flesh has seen better days (as has our own), and some folks opt to cover up a bit, with the favored item for the gents being the Speedo. As articles of clothing go, the Speedo falls under the heading of “why bother?”.  This man-kini is usually worn two sizes too small, and is frequently accessorized with a hefty “dun-lap”, which is a belly that has “done lapped” over the owner’s lower regions, obscuring said Speedo and its contents. (Thank goodness.) 

Voyeurs we are not, and we avert our gazes from these unappetizing views, preferring instead to watch arriving boats as they drop anchor.  One woman at the bow, ready to release the hook, declined the preferred method of lifting or pushing the anchor over the bow roller, and instead stood a few feet back and used a broom handle to poke the thing into the water. Minding her manicure? We’ll never know, but from this day forward, a broom handle to us will be called an anchor-poker.

In mid-June we weighed anchor for the short trip north to the little village of Ligia, just outside the southern entrance to the Levkas Canal.  We had a glorious sail in a light south-easterly breeze, broad-reaching in a calm sea, and making around 3-4 knots under main and headsail. The passage was so pleasant that Ken was able to work on the foredeck, adding some chain to our ground tackle.  We anchored just north of the tiny harbor’s mole, with its collection of fishing boats, and splurged on a dinner ashore at a waterfront taverna.  The local boats supply the tavernas with fresh fish daily, and Ligia is known for having some of the best on the island.

We were seated on the quay, just inches from the water, and when we asked our host about the fish of the day, he invited us to the kitchen area to take a look. He opened a stainless steel ice chest to reveal an assortment of seafood goodies on a bed of crushed ice, including shrimp, lobster, and several varieties of large and small fin-fish. We selected a healthy-looking hake, a fish whose firm white flesh is similar to that of cod or haddock. (Or Victoria’s Secret models.)

We lingered over our nibbles of fresh bread and olive tapenade, as the setting sun turned the mountain-tops pink to our east. Our fish arrived whole, on a platter, grilled to perfection and looking like a work of art with a pretty garnish of lemon and cucumber slices. It was almost too pretty to eat, but that didn’t stop us from devouring every morsel!

We departed Ligia on a bright hazy morning in a southerly breeze and were able to sail up the narrow Levkas Canal with only our small headsail, making 2.5-3.5 knots as we passed through peaceful marshlands where shore-birds waded in the shallows.  Arriving at the Levkas swing bridge about 30-minutes early, we joined the queue of yachts awaiting its opening, and were pleasantly surprised to run into (not literally) our hard-stand neighbors from Missalonghi marina. Once we’d cleared the bridge, we motor-sailed five miles NE to the mainland city of Preveza,  whose channel is the entrance to the Gulf of Amvrakia, known as “the inland sea”.  This body of water, land-locked save for the channel, has a coastline dotted with ruins and ancient sites, and multiple coves for sheltered anchoring. SD and her crew will definitely be checking out a few!

Cheers! K&K

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